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ûg Farm Plants,
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News of Crûg Farm Plants seed collecting trip autumn 2003 and previous expeditions.

Korean kaleidoscope Taiwan Vietnam

Not a country that springs instantly to mind when one is on the prowl for hardy plants, but we had been let in on a secret ...Not the one on how efficient they are at industry or how prosperous they are becoming, but what a beautiful and well maintained country still remains after all the ravages of war and pillaging by occupying empires.

It was Mark Fillan, who was at Spinners of Lymington at that time, who drew our attention to South Korea. He had been there briefly in 1989 and had found such gems as the aristocratic evergreen small tree Daphniphyllum macropodum, the pink flowering woodland Geranium koreanum and much coveted Camellia relative Stewartia koreana. All inspirational plants to goad our desires for more diversity in our gardens. The flora of Korea on closer inspection, revealed a wealth of flora, which were in our opinion lacking from British horticulture. Hence on our first jaunt back in 1993, with the initial help of the Ch'õllip'o Arboretum, we found ourselves very much at ease in this pleasant country.

The autumn is a truly remarkable time to see this rugged country. The mountains feature strongly in the physical composition of the land, they are always a distinct feature on the landscape, not the lofty heights of the Himalayas but enough of a challenge all the same. At the time we arrived in mid September of 1997, the mountains were a brilliant spectacle of autumnal hues, with all the imaginable shades of reds, greens and yellows seducing our attentions. Later, helped by the cold Siberian winds we would see the progression of the onset of winter, revealing the harshness within the landscape as the kaleidoscope of autumnal colours fall to the ground and expose the severe sharpness and ruggedness of all those uncovered mountains.

Whetting our appetite for Korean plants were the balmy coastal pine covered rolling hills surrounding the arboretum. They also gave us the perfect respite to recover from our jet-lag. Soon we were up to our thighs in Disporum uniflorum (BSWJ4100)(a much confused name, also known as D. flavens & D. sessile v. flavens) a superb relative of the Solomon's seal. Forming neat bamboo-like clumps of rarely branched stems, crowned in early spring by generous quantities of good sized (large for the genus) pendant butter-yellow flowers, holding their own for weeks in woodland conditions. We were a little disappointed by the quantity of blue-black elongated fruit on these, but that was more than made up for by later collections of this invaluable perennial. There were however many other members of the Convallariaceae family that we had been unable to locate on our first trip, which are in need of introducing. This was our main aim, but by no means only as we were actively building up a National Collection of Polygonatum.

Not to be outdone all jostling for floor space within these forests were, copious stands of Convallaria keiskei the Asiatic form of Lily of the Valley. Aconitum species galore, fruit laden Asparagus represented by shrubby bushes, Echinops latifolius a tall broad leafed Globe Flower. The well known Solomon's Seal Polygonatum odoratum and a by far less well known, in this country P. involucratum, a smaller species. The latter appealing to us, with their low arching stems of alternate broad leaves supporting large attending persistent bracts which had earlier shielded their pendant white green tipped flowers. Climbers are always a feature when they can find a host to clamber through. Here we gathered a rich harvest of small black grapes from Vitis flexuosa v. choii, several sausage-shaped fruit of Akebia quinata and berries of the black fruiting Smilax nipponica. Fat pods of Codonopsis lanceolata and a small quantity of a creamy-white flowering climbing-monkshood. Aconitum albo-violaceum (BSWJ4105) lightening dark corners of the forest well into the autumn with plumes of pale long spurred flowers.

Our first target area was in the north east, a rich area we had been too late to visit in '93. Sõraksan was basking in late summer sunshine when we arrived, the chilly nights up in these mountains had already painted these mountains in their rich autumnal hues. It was of little effort to spot large vines of Vitis amurense even at a kilometre away. The bright red foliage was inviting us to collect their small trusses of black polished grapes. Tripterygium regelii featured strongly in this area, with its plumes of papery seed heads radiant in the sun. These seeds are wind dispersed and tumble into innumerable rocky nooks and crannies. Normally encountered, all be it infrequently, in our gardens as a large woody twinning climber. The contrast of encountering them on exposed mountains where they are constantly pruned by the elements and animals, shed new light on their usefulness. Even in hot dry conditions they could adapt as a free standing deciduous shrubs covered for months by their persistent plumes a feature which has proved so successful in our own garden.


Aristolochia manchuriensis
Another climber in this area which we were keen to re-collect from was the twining Aristolochia manshuriensis, which we had seen in flower for the first time in Harry Hay's Reigate garden, in the spring of that year with surprisingly large flowers for such a hardy species. Our own plant rewarded our patience the following spring, as it has every year since with a fabulous display of their curiously shaped saxophone-like (alright Dutchman’s pipe) yellow red-lipped flowers which are born before the sumptuous heart-shaped leaves emerge. Thankfully there were still plenty of fruit at that time, long strongly ribbed sausage-shaped pods dangled in clusters in the midst of all those large bright yellow leaves.

The kiwi fruits are a strong feature in most of Eastern Asia. Here was an old friend in abundance, Actinidia arguta was still in fruit, a bounty of top-shaped green-yellowing fruit in large trusses. Our appetite for theses sweet strawberry flavoured delicacies was soon defeated leaving plenty to send home. Our small pergola at home, had soon been overwhelmed by this strong growing twiner. Its flood of small spring borne white saucer shaped flowers with contrasting black stamen, filling the air with their delicate scent.

North we continued to the DMZ (De Militarised Zone), where we had seen Michael Palin larking about, on the television series Full Circle the week before we left. Here at the eastern end of that line our thoughts were deep into the job at hand. Under the tree canopy was another treasure trove, tall spikes of Cimicifuga simplex (Actaea simplex) were heavy with ripe seed. Fluffy spikes of Ainsliaea acerifolia also ripening after their display of shuttle-cock-like daisies of the summer, complementing the clumps of palmate basal leaves of this woodland plant. Groups of Smilacina japonica (Maianthemum japonicum) were yellow in leaf adorned by large plumes of red-current like fruit. Close were another member of our hunted Liliaceae family, Paris verticillata were also yellowing in the night frosts. Standing stiffly to 50/60cm, a single whirl of curling and narrowing leaves, topped by yet a smaller whirl and crowned by a blue-black bulging berry, of which we were grateful to find enough still in place. Prostrate to the ground in this area we also found Asarum maculatum, a species with heart shaped green, grey mottled leaves, easily mistaken for a cyclamen when seen out of context in an European garden. Soon we had collected several species of Aconitum, pink flowering Astilbe chinensis v. davidii (BSWJ8583) and the much paler and fluffier plumed A. koreana (BSWJ8611). Cimicifuga heraclefolia var. bifida (Actaea bifida) a little known variety of this woodland perennial to a meter tall, with a fine display of white spiky plumes in late summer.


Thalictrum punctatum
Several Thalictrum, another group of shade tolerant perennials portraying a delicate air with their plumes of mostly pom-pom like flowers. Clematis urticifolia the well known herbaceous blue flowering species along with numerous species of Polygonatum.

Full of enthusiasm we moved south to the well hidden valley of Jimdong. Kihun San our guide from the arboretum had assured us that it would be good. He was right. Even on our way to the valley we were to find gems that we had long been on the look-out for. Symplocarpus nipponicus an aroid that we were intrigued with. By the promise of lurid dark spathes at ground level in early spring, which was growing in deep rich soil on a steep shady hillside. Close by we were to find our first plants of Disporum ovale, the missing link. Missing link? A plant that had eluded us on our previous trip linking the Asiatic disporums with their blue-black fruit, with those of North America with their red fruit. Here it was to be found in copious colonies, well into its winter dormancy and our last opportunity to collect the red terminal fruit before they all disappeared so early into the winter. On into the valley with its rich diversity, a Primula relative with purple pendant flowers Cortusa matthioli subsp. pekinkensis grew on the riverbank. The popular late flowering Saxifraga fortunei seeding into tiny cracks on wet rocks, where the rounded glossy foliage enhanced the white delicate flowers. Rosettes of Heloniopsis orientalis (BSWJ4173) festooning damp and darkly shaded banks. This evergreen perennial thrusting violet-blue flowering scapes of scented pendant flowers in spring. Actaea asiatica with their bright pink pedicels contrasting with the glossy polished black fruit. Here we encountered a localised rarity from the Campanula family, Hanabusaya asiatica, with elongated tubular pendant bells of , I quote my notes , ‘good blue flowers’. We were pleased to find this in both flower and in seed, allowing us to appreciate the fine form indigenous to this small valley, growing in light woodland shade on the edges of the path, ‘always in cool moist’ conditions.


Schisandra chinensis
On entering Odaesan slightly to the south we encountered luxurious trusses of red-ripe fruit of the climber Schisandra chinensis (BSWJ4204), Viburnum koreanum (BSWJ4231) holding its red fruit in corymbs. Banks of Caulophyllum robustum sadly missing most of its irresistible blue fruit, but enough to get us started. An intriguing colony of Veratrum with tall spikes of winged seed capsules, which we whisked away to be sown as soon as possible.

There were scattered plants of Hepatica asiatica, several species of Polygonatum and Disporum along with a charming colony of Patrinia saniculaefolia growing on a steep well drained bank, colouring up into its autumnal tints. This is another small charmer for the shady spot with palmate basal leaves, glossy green in summer topped by corymbs of small yellow flowers.

Deeper into the area we were again rewarded, with more Convallariaceae. Streptopus koreanus bearing its red fruit close by to Smilacina bicolor with its running rhizomes also with red fruit, but in terminal spikes. Small wonder when one compares the running rhizomes of this type of Smilacina, to those of our more familiar restrained broad rhizomed S. racemosa, that we now learn that the genus of Smilacina has been incorporated into Maianthemum.

This is the point that we turned Grace (our 12 seater van) directly south heading for the ferry to Ullüngdõ (dõ translating to island). As always a small diversion was always welcomed especially in an area of limestone, called Chuwangsan. Here we followed a river valley with steep sides with only limited areas of explorable terrain. Where we found Veratrum ussuriense BSWJ4450 a dark flowered species, along with Patrinia ruprestis a taller species than the earlier find of P. saniculaefolia. The list grew steadily as we progressed up the valley. Lilium cernuum a pink flowering Turk's cap Lily growing close to the river, while Hydrangea serrata a small species familiar to most gardeners grew in the forest, in contrast to Sedum orbiculatum an elusive small pink flowering species growing in impossible cracks on the steep limestone cliffs. Here is where we found a member of a genus barley cultivated in the West, but long appreciated by the subtler Japanese horticulturist, Chloranthus serratus, forming clumps of stems to 50cm tall, on the forest floor, bearing a whirl of two-three opposite pairs of shallowly toothed leaves. The small white flowers are held is several narrow arching spikes. This area was shared with Jeffersonia dubia (BSWJ984) a diminutive member of the Berberis family. Coveted as they are, these perennials emerge from the bare forest floor in early spring, when their neat rounded foliage is bronze tinged, portraying their affinity to Epimedium a close relative. The cup shaped lavender-blue flowers opening almost immediately, singly on short wiry stems held above the leaves.

Not least and of course continuing with our quest for Convallariaceae we were able to collect seed of Polygonatum falcatum. Why bother with that? I can hear. Despite the name being widely used in cultivation the plant is still very rare in cultivation, only available in the UK from a few discerning nurseries. Inevitably what passes for this majestic species in the nursery trade is either P. humile (the contrast could not be greater) or P. odoratum (particularly in its variegated form). Here was the true plant a metre tall with strongly arching stems with the alternating distinctively narrow falcate (curved, as a sickle) leaves.

Ullüngdõ is 275 kilometres off the east coast, we arrived there in the mid-afternoon sun on a high-speed catamaran ferry. A pimple in the Sea of Japan, with sheer cliffs erupting from the sea, topped by a diverse green tapestry of forest. Squid fishing is the main industry here and of that you are certainly made aware. Being the main season for harvesting these morsels, the place was draped with drying squid in almost every conceivable space. We lodged almost on the dock, where the lady vendors enticed us to taste this delicacy at its freshest, raw dipped in a sambal, a chilly laden soy sauce. Also recommended for chewing in its dried state on long journeys, much better than chewing gum.

An early start was necessary to catch our ferry and bus to the opposite side of the island, an event all of its own when a vehicle broke loose on deck and nearly capsized us. Thankfully soon forgotten, as soon as we launched into collecting we were confronted with, what must have been the finest specimen of Hydrangea anomala ssp. petiolaris (listed as the variety tiliifolia BSWJ8497 in our plant list from a 2001 collection) that we had ever encountered. Weighted down by enormous corymbs of what were by now large plump green seed capsules. Campanula takesimana in its white form, made its presence known early on, mostly from the uppermost belt of dry shady banks, as well as the internally heavily purple spotted form which we collected from later on (BSWJ8519).

It was not long before we were almost overwhelmed by the sheer profusion, of both mass and quality of this island. Maianthemum bifolium var. kamtschaticum (syn. dilatatum) (BSWJ4360) with upright spikes of red fruit could only be measured by the acre. Close behind in quantity was that revered Disporum uniflorum that we had seen back in Ch'õllip'o, luckily this time heavy in fruit. Swathes of the white flowering Trillium kamtschaticum were present in lesser numbers, unfortunately without fruit. Now was our opportunity to collect seed of the so called variegated form of Arisaema angustatum var. peninsulae. A truly spectacular form endemic to this island, forming plants to 1.2 meters tall with large white zoned digitate leaves topped by broad spikes of red-ripe fruit.


Hepatica maxima
As we ascended the colonies of Hepatica maxima (BSWJ4344) became more and more frequent. Finding the seed of these proved exhausting on what was already a strenuous hike.

We had to look under the large glossy leaves of what must have been thousands of plants, as most of the seed had already gone. As with the Hepatica a gain in elevation bought a fresh diversity to the heavily wooded Sõnginsan, Lilium hansonii became plentiful near the summit. Here we also found the Hydrangea relative Schizophragma hydrangeoides (BSWJ8522), aerial rooting as are all of the climbers in this family. Differing in this genus by the large single bracted sterile flowers surrounding the normally white flat topped corymbs. As well as the evergreen shrub Rhododendron brachycarpum subsp. fauriei, along with colonies of the familiar Aucuba japonica bearing green fruit not yet ripened to red. Occasional plants of Viola dissecta v. chaerophylloides with its parsley like heavily divided foliage were evident, growing below Sorbus commixta the common rowan in this part of the world, bearing its broad cymes of globular red fruit. The broad leafed Allium victorialis v. platyphyllum could also be found here along with several species of Polygonatum and our cats' favourite plant Actinidia polygama (BSWJ8544). What attracts cats to this plant is a mystery to us. We have had to build cages around young plants of this on our nursery, to stop our cats from destroying them. Known as the silver vine, a name deriving from the fact that the leaves turn silver-white in sunlight, a spectacle indeed on the plants the size of which we were encountering. Contrary to the information we have in some of our reference books, that only male plants colour, our pressed specimens proved that female and or hermaphrodite plants achieve this coloration. Polygama referring to a plant species in which combinations of male, female or hermaphrodite flowers occur on the same plants.

Weighted by our rich pickings we moved on to our next port of call, a long drive across the country after our ferry ride, to put Grace onto the ferry for Cheju-Dõ. Well to the south of the mainland as close to Japan as Korea. A favourite holiday destination for Koreans (particularly honeymoon couples), is the volcanic island hosting a rich endemic flora. The island boasts the highest mountain in Korea, Mount Halla (Hallasan) at nearly 2000 m. in elevation. We were fortunate to have climbed Hallasan in the snow on our previous visit and even more fortunate to find the rare Geranium shikokianum v quelpartense (BSWJ1234)(Quelpart is the old name for Cheju-Dõ) just poking through the snow. Unfortunately due to its popularity the summit was closed until 1999, after which the access has been strictly limited, usually reaching its annual quota on the first day of opening.

The lower slopes to Hallasan are well wooded and preserved, hosting a good diverse flora. The forest floor is littered with the fruit of two species of Arisaema, A. ringens f. sieboldii (black lipped form) distinct in its large glossy trifoliate leaves, while A. angustatum v. peninsulae has digitate leaves on tall mottled stems. Intriguing was a tiny form of Hosta venusta, along with Chloranthus japonica another species close to the earlier mentioned, but differing in its single bottle-brush like white upright flower spike. Here also grew several species of Goodyera, charming ground hugging woodland orchids, many with patterned leaves still holding the remnants of a short flowering scape above the leaves. Along with Mitchella undulata f. quelpartensis (BSWJ4402) a small leafed form of a prostrate shrub with brilliant-red twin fruits set against the tiny dark green undulating leaves, the Asiatic form of what the Americans call Partridge Berry. Here is where we found a diminutive form of Aruncus aethusifolius (BSWJ4475) since named as ‘Little Gem’ ,only a few inches tall. Not forgetting Hydrangea quelpartensis (BSWJ4400) an abundant climber because of its generous wind borne seed. A close relative of the well known climber Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris, it was to be seen climbing practically every tree, its deeply toothed leaves a luminous autumnal yellow. On the forest edge our reward was a good crop of dark grape-like fruits from Daphniphyllum macropodum (BSWJ8763), along with more nut-like fruit of Styrax japonica (BSWJ8770) (snow-bell) a dazzling small tree in its autumnal plumage which had borne a bright display of their snow drop-like flowers in spring. Whilst the spectacular Dogwood, Cornus kousa (BSWJ5494) grew to tree-like proportions covered with its pendulous strawberry-like fruit.

On the northern slopes of the island we found the rare twining climber, Schisandra nigra a fabled rarity of this island. Unfortunately without a single black fruit remaining hence all we could do was to try a hardwood cutting. But not all was lost as we later that same year encountered the species heavy with fruit in Japan (BSWJ5080). Almost at its feet were old clumps of the architectural Veratrum grandiflorum (BSWJ4416), with just the faded branching spikes of seed left standing to well over a meter tall, with the remnants of the dried broad pleated foliage blackened at the base. Sadly on our return in 2003 there was no sign of these plants in this very spot, strange as the area would appear not to be unduly threatened. Here too grew Actaea japonica distinct with its broad palmate leaves and short spikes of white flowers giving us an indication as to why it was once named Cimicifuga acerina. Differing greatly with the form of this species which we collected in the dense forest along dried riverbeds, where the plants would only attain a height of 10cm in flower (BSWJ8758a). Along with Lilium tsingtauense with a whirl of mottled foliage topped in late spring by orange lilies. Hepatica insularis with its mottled leaves is common throughout the island as is the charming Asarum maculatum with much better patterned leaves than we had seen further north.

To the east of the island is the Abuorum Crater, one of the many incongruous features on an otherwise flat landscape. Here on the rim in well drained volcanic soil grew Geranium krameri (BSWJ1142), with hairy leaves and pink flowers bearing notched petals in some forms. Down inside the crater we found Syneilesis aconitifolia with narrowly divided peltate leaves, easily recognisable in spring when emerging covered in cobwebby soft hair in the same fashion as a Pulsatilla.


Tricyrtis macropoda
After leaving the island we headed for our final destination of Chirisan, where the weather became noticeably cooler. We were astonished by the sight confronting us at our first stop,….. ¬ a whole hillside of the broad leafed Tricyrtis macropoda (BSWJ8700).

We had only previously seen small clumps of this rarity. Yet another plant much confused in horticulture. It was only after growing our own collections that we finally saw how different the true plants were from the impostors previously encountered. The flowers of this species are distinct, in that when they are fully opened the petals are recurved, swept back in the same fashion as a Cyclamen, unfortunately giving the flower the appearance of being smaller.

It became more difficult to find our quarry as the falling leaves blanketed the ground. All the same we still found plenty to fulfil our needs. Actaea simplex was abundant, tall with arching spikes of white flowers. Clematis urticifolia (BSWJ8715) could be seen in large drifts in the depth of the forests.


Geranium koraiense
Geranium koreanum (BSWJ602) with brilliant red autumnal leaves was common in forest clearings. Aconitum seoulense with trilobed leaves was still displaying the occasional blue flower to assist us in our identification though Lychnis cognata had long finished its sumptuous display of orange-red flowers.

On the loftier heights, there were dark seed pods of Hemerocallis longituba (BSWJ4576) to be collected, standing close to the weighty drooping inflorescences of Sanguisorba hakusanensis (BSWJ8709) reputedly the best of its genus, with long deep pink flowering catkin-like spikes on tall arching stems. We felt particularly fortunate to find a small tree of Stewartia pseudocamellia laden with seed, along with several species of Acer still holding on to theirs propeller-like seed. Though our star find in this area was a double flowering form of Hydrangea serrata (BSWJ4595), a dwarfed shrub with blue flowers growing in a boulder strewn moraine under deciduous trees. Dan Hinkley later attributed this collection to Sue by naming it ‘Chirisan Sue’, no doubt remembering the flack we received from her on our late arrival at our rendezvous as the light faded.

Exhilarated by our tour it was back to base. After a month on the road of tiring but invigorating work Ch'õllip'o was a welcoming sight. We were glad of the opportunity to finalise our notes and regroup. It was our opportunity to parcel our seed collections home by the fastest possible route so that those that required quick sowing would be dealt with, within the week. By then we had found and sent home a good cross-section of the Korean ornamental flora and were well pleased with ourselves. Only then did we start anticipating, Japan and Thailand where we would be working for the following two months, speculating on what else we had in store.

Bleddyn Wynn-Jones